DBSnappa wrote:
Failing that, keep pestering Halfords, as from my experience, squeaks and noises should disappear after a few minutes as most calipers are self adjusting nowadays.
I'll pop it back in next week and they can do the 6 week service on it. I think I've managed to adjust the de-railer myself (was just abit icky going down onto the smallest front gear.
As I say I also have a proper maintenence book coming (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193138259X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1253535707&sr=1-1-spell). I did consider the Haynes manual recommended elsewhere but looking online it seems to get a slating for some people for not having enough coverage of mending stuff and wasting time on the history of cycling.
Gonna go out for a ride in a mo. Need to go to the post box and work can GTFF considering I spent all weekend helping my mate edit.
chinnyhill10 wrote:
DBSnappa wrote:
Failing that, keep pestering Halfords, as from my experience, squeaks and noises should disappear after a few minutes as most calipers are self adjusting nowadays.
I'll pop it back in next week and they can do the 6 week service on it. I think I've managed to adjust the de-railer myself (was just abit icky going down onto the smallest front gear.
As I say I also have a proper maintenence book coming (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193138259X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1253535707&sr=1-1-spell).
I have that book. It's pretty good I reckon. My copy has that proper workshop feel now, all dog eared and oil stained
It's not 'proper' until it contains pages of corrections.
I'M LOOKING AT YOU, HAYNES!
I'M LOOKING AT YOU, HAYNES!
Just been out and done 15 miles. Front brake was worse when I started out but better when I got back. Thinking back the problem started after I went out for a ride in heavy rain. Perhaps contamination on the pads?
Could be, but water should dry up pretty fast due to the friction.
Grim... wrote:
Could be, but water should dry up pretty fast due to the friction.
Might have splashed oil or something onto it, though. Pain in the arse if so.
My breaks my a horrendous sound in the extreme wet, and the performance seems to drop a fair margin. I wonder if sintered pads would help, there.
Malabar Front wrote:
Grim... wrote:
Could be, but water should dry up pretty fast due to the friction.
Might have splashed oil or something onto it, though. Pain in the arse if so.
My breaks my a horrendous sound in the extreme wet, and the performance seems to drop a fair margin. I wonder if sintered pads would help, there.
Disc brakes are always noisy when wet. Or dirty. This shouldn't be a problem as continued usage will clear them.
Also, oil won't splash if it gets wet, and nothing on your bike, including the chain, should be so oily that it can contaminate the pads. Hubs are sealed bearings so simply need cleaning not lubing and if you're hosing down the rear cassette and chain with WD40 or GT85 put an old tea towel over the disc and caliper. Basically, very light oiling for moving parts - put it on a rag and run the chain through it gently holding it over the chain and turning the crank backwards to run the chain through it should be done once a week or after a ride in heavy rain/wet conditions. Use lithium grease sparingly on the rear and front derailleurs and a little on the crank itself, rather than oil.
If you're riding a lot, get a chain wear indicator tool - as I've said before, replacing the chain when worn is cheaper than leaving it for six months and having to change the rear cassette and possibly the middle ring on the crank.
DBSnappa wrote:
Disc brakes are always noisy when wet. Or dirty. This shouldn't be a problem as continued usage will clear them.
Should it be as loud as a derailed train every time I apply the breaks in such conditions? The noise does go, and the performance does return, but only after about five or six seconds of heavy braking, only to return for the next time I need to slow down. It really is astonishingly loud.
Malabar Front wrote:
DBSnappa wrote:
Disc brakes are always noisy when wet. Or dirty. This shouldn't be a problem as continued usage will clear them.
Should it be as loud as a derailed train every time I apply the breaks in such conditions? The noise does go, and the performance does return, but only after about five or six seconds of heavy braking, only to return for the next time I need to slow down. It really is astonishingly loud.
They do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but then you could always alleviate the situation by skimming the water off them by gently holding them before you need them. They are noisey when wet, though, and as long as they work I would do nothing except advise ear plugs
Water clearance could be a combination of changing the pads or the rotors. Disc brake kits range in price from £30 an end to £250 an end. Mine are Hope mono minis which cost about £120 an end and they squeal like stuck pigs in the wet, but it doesn't have a massive impact on performance.
Mine were loud in the wet. I figure its probably a good idea to get heat into them if you are going downhill by applying them so they just rub. That seemed to reduce the noise.
I love having them but suspect they'll be a bitch to maintain. We're now getting to the time of year where I can belt down country lanes with confidence while all the ponces on their racing bikes have packed up for the year for worry of getting wet.
In a few weeks I'll be able to go up on the New Forest again as everyone will have fucked off home leaving me to peacefully cycle.
I love having them but suspect they'll be a bitch to maintain. We're now getting to the time of year where I can belt down country lanes with confidence while all the ponces on their racing bikes have packed up for the year for worry of getting wet.
In a few weeks I'll be able to go up on the New Forest again as everyone will have fucked off home leaving me to peacefully cycle.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/8274031.stm
Speed humps on a cycle lane.
Seems reasonable to me, TBH.
Speed humps on a cycle lane.
Seems reasonable to me, TBH.
Grim... wrote:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/8274031.stm
Speed humps on a cycle lane.
Seems reasonable to me, TBH.
Speed humps on a cycle lane.
Seems reasonable to me, TBH.
As a cyclist I'd say probably, yeah. I don't know that particular road, however. If it's used heavily by pedestrians and they're in danger of being knocked over by cyclists then yes.
However, if they did that on the route I take to work, I'd be flabberghasted. I cycle past about four or five pedestrians a week but see probably about 50 cyclists.
I really wouldn't suggest championing cyclists' rights based on a numbers game, because you'll get run over.
Aha - that photo was misleading.
Here are the actual bumps:
Here are the actual bumps:
Craster wrote:
I really wouldn't suggest championing cyclists' rights based on a numbers game, because you'll get run over.
I would if I ever cycled on the road.
Grim... wrote:
Aha - that photo was misleading.
Here are the actual bumps:
Here are the actual bumps:
Gosh, how attractive.
Ease up Cras - it's not her fault. She probably didn't even realise she'd been photographed.
Grim... wrote:
Aha - that photo was misleading.
Here are the actual bumps:
Here are the actual bumps:
Yikes! That's impossible to cycle down. The problem here is irresponsible cyclists not paying attention to pedestrians, not the speed they're travelling at.
I always slow down when there's pedestrians around, but I've nearly been knocked over by cyclists clearly riding too fast on shared paths.
myp wrote:
I always slow down when there's pedestrians around, but I've nearly been knocked over by cyclists clearly riding too fast on shared paths.
I was nearly knocked into a canal by a cyclist who decided to pass on my left side at a stupid speed without bothering to let me know he was approaching. The surface on those paths is far too noisy to hear anything coming, unfortunately, so it's absolutely essential you make people aware of you if you're passing them from behind.
And christ those speed-bumps are over the top. They're barely even a bike's length apart.
Grim... wrote:
Aha - that photo was misleading.
Here are the actual bumps:
Here are the actual bumps:
They look like great fun. The Chinny bike would make mincemeat of those. I was flying down a road at 20mph earlier on going over speed bumps. For maximum effect apply light braking to the rear wheel when you are in the air so it lightly locks when it hits the ground and throws up dust so you look kewl.
chinnyhill10 wrote:
For maximum effect apply light braking to the rear wheel when you are in the air so it lightly locks when it hits the ground and throws up dust so you look kewl.
And wear SPDs so you can really flick the back end in the air without even trying.
I now have two lights on the front of my bike. I got a 40 quid LED thing in the week. It has a single LED in the front but throws out a serious beam. I figure I'll keep my old cheaper LED light on the bike as well because although it doesn't have a focused beam, I can use it to provide nearside illumination when needed.
I'm getting on with my bike really well. Apart from the front brake issue its an awesome ride. Yes it's heavier on roads but loose gravel and potholes are no problem at all. The side track to our house which is gravel and very bumpy is great to ride down at speed. It just seems to handle everything you can throw at it and is really sure footed. It's great to have that confidence when riding in the rain down a muddy lane with blind corners. Never see the lycra brigade on many of the roads I go on!
I'm getting on with my bike really well. Apart from the front brake issue its an awesome ride. Yes it's heavier on roads but loose gravel and potholes are no problem at all. The side track to our house which is gravel and very bumpy is great to ride down at speed. It just seems to handle everything you can throw at it and is really sure footed. It's great to have that confidence when riding in the rain down a muddy lane with blind corners. Never see the lycra brigade on many of the roads I go on!
Malabar Front wrote:
chinnyhill10 wrote:
For maximum effect apply light braking to the rear wheel when you are in the air so it lightly locks when it hits the ground and throws up dust so you look kewl.
And wear SPDs so you can really flick the back end in the air without even trying.
<Mali says it again>
Clipless pedals are the upgrade to a bike that makes the most difference.
Get them as soon as you can, and don't be such a girl about being clipped in and falling over.
Malabar Front wrote:
myp wrote:
I always slow down when there's pedestrians around, but I've nearly been knocked over by cyclists clearly riding too fast on shared paths.
I was nearly knocked into a canal by a cyclist who decided to pass on my left side at a stupid speed without bothering to let me know he was approaching. The surface on those paths is far too noisy to hear anything coming, unfortunately, so it's absolutely essential you make people aware of you if you're passing them from behind.
On a canal path you're actually supposed to *get off* and wait until the walker or horse has gone past. It's like a law or something.
I cycled into work today for the first time in about two weeks. It's amazing how your fitness can drop off in such a short space of time - I felt like I was going to have a heart attack. Still posted a decent time, though.
kalmar wrote:
On a canal path you're actually supposed to *get off* and wait until the walker or horse has gone past. It's like a law or something.
Possibly. That doesn't help when you're both going in the same direction and he overtakes you from behind without letting you know of his presence, though.
MaliA wrote:
<Mali says it again>
Clipless pedals are the upgrade to a bike that makes the most difference.
Get them as soon as you can, and don't be such a girl about being clipped in and falling over.
Clipless pedals are the upgrade to a bike that makes the most difference.
Get them as soon as you can, and don't be such a girl about being clipped in and falling over.
They're brilliant, and I'm glad I splashed out on a stupidly comfortable pair. Not having to worry about your feet over any terrain, just your pedalling, is most excellent. And you soon get used to unclipping when you slow down.
myp wrote:
I cycled into work today for the first time in about two weeks. It's amazing how your fitness can drop off in such a short space of time - I felt like I was going to have a heart attack. Still posted a decent time, though.
I haven't been on my bike in nearly a month now. I just haven't seemed to have any time, which is a bloody shame. I dread to think how my fitness has been affected.
I've been going into actual work on a Wednesday lately, instead of working from home the whole week. That involves:
2 miles to the train station, 10-minute train, 20 minute train to Crewe, 6-mile ride into Nantwich. Then 6-mile ride back to Crewe, 20-minute train, then I do a 6-mile ride back to my house instead of taking the 10-minute train because I inevitably miss it by a couple of minutes and can't be arsed waiting.
But my boss has been in meetings for the past few weeks each Wednesday, so there's been little point going in. My next ride will likely be the one into work, and it's going to kill me.
kalmar wrote:
On a canal path you're actually supposed to *get off* and wait until the walker or horse has gone past. It's like a law or something.
You actually need a licence/permit from British Waterways to cycle on *any* tow path in the country.
My esteemed chariot has been off the road for a month or two awaiting me getting off my arse and sorting out replacing the bearings in the rear swing assembly/suspension - I really don't know what else to call this, but basically it's the main bearing near the bottom pivot point by the bottom bracket and the smaller bearings on the upper pivot. I noticed some months ago that I was getting a bit too much lateral play in the rear end of the bike during suspension compression, particularly while cornering and came to the conclusion that this was almost certainly down to worn out bearings from many years of hard riding.
In my defence it wasn't pure laziness - my back had been giving me serious gyp for the past month which put me off sorting it and I had tried to get several bike stores to source the bearings for me having initially approached Trek myself and been told to go to a dealer. Not one of them did manage to sort this for me and the only one who offered to fix it for me was going to charge me £160 for the privilege. I made an assumption that there was no way a cycle manufacturer was going to use bespoke bearings so I thought I'd investigate doing it myself and seeing if I could source the parts online. Anyway, much grubbiness of hands later I got the bike disassembled - took the rear wheel off, removed the crank and moved the front derailleur so I could get clear access to the bottom pivot. Managed to extract the assembly and get to the bearing and removed the bearings from the upper pivot points - six smaller bearings and two larger bearings required. Cost, including delivery. £34. Result, I say. Hopefully it won't ride like a bag of shit when I get the parts and reassemble it
In my defence it wasn't pure laziness - my back had been giving me serious gyp for the past month which put me off sorting it and I had tried to get several bike stores to source the bearings for me having initially approached Trek myself and been told to go to a dealer. Not one of them did manage to sort this for me and the only one who offered to fix it for me was going to charge me £160 for the privilege. I made an assumption that there was no way a cycle manufacturer was going to use bespoke bearings so I thought I'd investigate doing it myself and seeing if I could source the parts online. Anyway, much grubbiness of hands later I got the bike disassembled - took the rear wheel off, removed the crank and moved the front derailleur so I could get clear access to the bottom pivot. Managed to extract the assembly and get to the bearing and removed the bearings from the upper pivot points - six smaller bearings and two larger bearings required. Cost, including delivery. £34. Result, I say. Hopefully it won't ride like a bag of shit when I get the parts and reassemble it
I got Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance for Christmas and, though I'm yet to take a proper look, it's bloody comprehensive, isn't it! Cheers for the suggestion, Snappa. I should probably have a go at adjusting my gears for myself soon before I start riding again.
Malabar Front wrote:
I got Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance for Christmas and, though I'm yet to take a proper look, it's bloody comprehensive, isn't it! Cheers for the suggestion, Snappa. I should probably have a go at adjusting my gears for myself soon before I start riding again.
It's a fantastic book that - my version is a few years old now so it doesn't really cover what I'm doing with my bike, but I've done everything on my bike myself since buying the book so it's saved me £££s already and it's also given me the confidence to try doing most things if I have the tools and I've built up a fairly comprehensive selection of tools over the last decade. I still have to refer to it every time I do anything with regard to gear adjustment as I don't do it all that often so need to refresh my memory. The only thing I couldn't do is replace the headset and that's simply as I don't have the tool to do it and won't buy one as they cost a bloody fortune. However, I reckon I could probably make my own headset clamp myself for a fraction of the cost of buying one.
Bike FEEX, and apart from a very minor adjustment to the front derailleur it rides likes a dream
I've just ordered the book, as my bike's gears are all out of alignment all other the place, and they need a good fiddling with. Looking forward to a Saturday morning of fixing them, followed by a Saturday afternoon of riding and falling over in the mud.
My bike is a bit old and none too fancy ( a couple of year old GT Agressor ), and I'd like to slowly upgrade. Is it worth going the whole hog and saving up for a whole new everything, or get some new bits gradually, and transfer them on to the new frame when I get it. I'm tempted by some clippy pedals and shoes after reading this thread.
My bike is a bit old and none too fancy ( a couple of year old GT Agressor ), and I'd like to slowly upgrade. Is it worth going the whole hog and saving up for a whole new everything, or get some new bits gradually, and transfer them on to the new frame when I get it. I'm tempted by some clippy pedals and shoes after reading this thread.
Squirt wrote:
I've just ordered the book, as my bike's gears are all out of alignment all other the place, and they need a good fiddling with. Looking forward to a Saturday morning of fixing them, followed by a Saturday afternoon of riding and falling over in the mud.
My bike is a bit old and none too fancy ( a couple of year old GT Agressor ), and I'd like to slowly upgrade. Is it worth going the whole hog and saving up for a whole new everything, or get some new bits gradually, and transfer them on to the new frame when I get it. I'm tempted by some clippy pedals and shoes after reading this thread.
My bike is a bit old and none too fancy ( a couple of year old GT Agressor ), and I'd like to slowly upgrade. Is it worth going the whole hog and saving up for a whole new everything, or get some new bits gradually, and transfer them on to the new frame when I get it. I'm tempted by some clippy pedals and shoes after reading this thread.
Depends on the frame really. Stuff like decent handlebars, headsets, pedals and wheels will last a long time. From my experience, don't go mad on cranksets, derailleurs as the high end stuff, though good, doesn't last so by the time you're upgrading the frame they'll probably need replacing. A decent set of wheels (Mavic CrossMax ferinstance) though expensive, will last 10 years, as will a decent headset like Chris King. I wouldn't bother buying any geometry altering stuff like handlebars and stems as your new frame's geometry, when you upgrade, will almost certainly be different.
So, SPD pedals if you like them, wheels, headset, then think about things like brakes if you can fit discs (as they last very well too), then do cranksets, derailleurs, rear cassettes etc as all this stuff wears out with use.
With regard to a frame, if you're going to spend silly money (say >£600) I would give very serious consideration to having a custom frame built.
Many thanks Mr Snappa! I'm really just a beginner, and 600 quid frames are going to be a while off yet, but I do want to get more serious and whilst my current set-up is OK, it's not going to last me for very long I think. I also live in the bottom of a valley, so any where interesting to cycle requires a decent slog up a fairly steep hill, so I think the SPDs will help there.
Has anyone ever used prescription cycling glasses? My eyes are broken enough that there is no way I'd like to do with normal lenses in.
Has anyone ever used prescription cycling glasses? My eyes are broken enough that there is no way I'd like to do with normal lenses in.
Malabar Front wrote:
I got Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance for Christmas and, though I'm yet to take a proper look, it's bloody comprehensive, isn't it! Cheers for the suggestion, Snappa. I should probably have a go at adjusting my gears for myself soon before I start riding again.
That's a top tip, thanks - I'd never heard of the book but just looked out the one for road bikes and yes, it exists and yes, I will be ordering it soon. Don't really have a clue, but racked up over 3000 miles on mine last year so could do with being a bit less clueless than I am.
JBR wrote:
Malabar Front wrote:
I got Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance for Christmas and, though I'm yet to take a proper look, it's bloody comprehensive, isn't it! Cheers for the suggestion, Snappa. I should probably have a go at adjusting my gears for myself soon before I start riding again.
That's a top tip, thanks
You're welcome. I take full credit.
JBR wrote:
Malabar Front wrote:
I got Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance for Christmas and, though I'm yet to take a proper look, it's bloody comprehensive, isn't it! Cheers for the suggestion, Snappa. I should probably have a go at adjusting my gears for myself soon before I start riding again.
That's a top tip, thanks - I'd never heard of the book but just looked out the one for road bikes and yes, it exists and yes, I will be ordering it soon. Don't really have a clue, but racked up over 3000 miles on mine last year so could do with being a bit less clueless than I am.
Gah, I managed 1900 on my bike. But then again i can't do the distances road bikes can. On the other hand I can go out in all conditions*.
* Apart from ice which I learnt the hard way.
DBSnappa wrote:
s if you can fit discs (as they last very well too), then do cranksets, derailleurs, rear cassettes etc as all this stuff wears out with use.
I was astonished at how little wear my pads have had when I had the front wheel off.
chinnyhill10 wrote:
Gah, I managed 1900 on my bike. But then again i can't do the distances road bikes can. On the other hand I can go out in all conditions*.
* Apart from ice which I learnt the hard way.
* Apart from ice which I learnt the hard way.
I did 500, according to my computer, but I only started halfway through the year and ended early. Must try harder. 73%
Malabar Front wrote:
chinnyhill10 wrote:
Gah, I managed 1900 on my bike. But then again i can't do the distances road bikes can. On the other hand I can go out in all conditions*.
* Apart from ice which I learnt the hard way.
* Apart from ice which I learnt the hard way.
I did 500, according to my computer, but I only started halfway through the year and ended early. Must try harder. 73%
To be fair, I have the benefit of working for myself. So in winter if I'm at home for the day I can pop out during daylight hours for a 90 minute ride.
That helps the figures alot. I try to do at one weekday ride a week + one weekend ride weather permitting. But in Summer I can easily do 60-70 miles in a week, whereas at this time of year most weeks I can only manage about 30.
One thing I have noticed with the new bike is that although it is a far better ride it is heavier and my average speed has decreased.
I keep on knocking the little counter thingy on my fork out of alignment, so I cycle for 2 hours and it thinks I've done 300yds. I've no idea how far I've gone over all.
Squirt wrote:
I keep on knocking the little counter thingy on my fork out of alignment, so I cycle for 2 hours and it thinks I've done 300yds. I've no idea how far I've gone over all.
Get a GPS based unit. They kick arse. No way would I ever go back to one of those stupid magnetic sensor things. Pain in the arse and very easy to set them up so they are inaccurate.
A GPS unit just works. I love mine.
chinnyhill10 wrote:
DBSnappa wrote:
s if you can fit discs (as they last very well too), then do cranksets, derailleurs, rear cassettes etc as all this stuff wears out with use.
I was astonished at how little wear my pads have had when I had the front wheel off.
Even with the amount of riding you're doing your pads should last about 2 years provided you don't get oil on them, or worse, brake fluid. Once every six months I'd pop the pads out of the calipers and very carefully lube the pistons then your disc brakes should last you years. I've been running disc brakes for about 8 years now and I've never changed a set of pads due to wear yet - changed about four sets due to contamination though, all of them my fault. Basically, if you do any maintenance on your brakes, TAKE THE PADS OUT! Particularly if you decide you want to attempt to bleed them.
chinnyhill10 wrote:
Squirt wrote:
I keep on knocking the little counter thingy on my fork out of alignment, so I cycle for 2 hours and it thinks I've done 300yds. I've no idea how far I've gone over all.
Get a GPS based unit. They kick arse. No way would I ever go back to one of those stupid magnetic sensor things. Pain in the arse and very easy to set them up so they are inaccurate.
A GPS unit just works. I love mine.
Or if you just want to know how long a route is use the "My Maps" thing on Google maps. It lets you draw a route and tells you the length.
markg wrote:
chinnyhill10 wrote:
Squirt wrote:
I keep on knocking the little counter thingy on my fork out of alignment, so I cycle for 2 hours and it thinks I've done 300yds. I've no idea how far I've gone over all.
Get a GPS based unit. They kick arse. No way would I ever go back to one of those stupid magnetic sensor things. Pain in the arse and very easy to set them up so they are inaccurate.
A GPS unit just works. I love mine.
Or if you just want to know how long a route is use the "My Maps" thing on Google maps. It lets you draw a route and tells you the length.
Doesn't tell you calories burned though, let you measure precise timings or keep a log of every ride you've done. It is aces and will even give you a compass + distance back to your start point or your next waypoint. Very useful when cycling in an unfamiliar area where there might not be a signal for your iPhone.
Oh I know, its only advantage is that it costs fuck all. I have a GPS for walking and I wouldn't want to go back to fumbling around with a map and compass again.
Malabar Front wrote:
I did 500, according to my computer, but I only started halfway through the year and ended early. Must try harder. 73%
I did about 500 too & I use my bike more than the car Christ knows how many miles I've done in the skatepark though. Ebay:260556712113
*watches*
Kona Kilueau (spl?) with project 2s..
*watches*
Kona Kilueau (spl?) with project 2s..
chinnyhill10 wrote:
markg wrote:
chinnyhill10 wrote:
Squirt wrote:
I keep on knocking the little counter thingy on my fork out of alignment, so I cycle for 2 hours and it thinks I've done 300yds. I've no idea how far I've gone over all.
Get a GPS based unit. They kick arse. No way would I ever go back to one of those stupid magnetic sensor things. Pain in the arse and very easy to set them up so they are inaccurate.
A GPS unit just works. I love mine.
Or if you just want to know how long a route is use the "My Maps" thing on Google maps. It lets you draw a route and tells you the length.
Doesn't tell you calories burned though
Would the number of times you've turned the pedals (and the force used) need to be measured to calculate this?
Grim... wrote:
Would the number of times you've turned the pedals (and the force used) need to be measured to calculate this?
Naw. You only need to know the time & your avg. speed to get a decent estimate of the calories burned. Page 8 of 34 [ 1654 posts ]