Bikes
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Squirt wrote:
Cool! Does it have regenerative what ever so you can get electricity back when you go down hills?

No, it's not really worth it for a bike I don't think, there's just not enough mass to make it worthwhile.
Zardoz wrote:
Nice one. Look forward to you adding more LiPos / LEDs :D

Already done a remap! (went into the controller settings and moderately increased the speed at which the motor cuts out)
Make sure you fit bigger brakes and an uprated clutch then too mate.
How does it charge? Do you literally just have a mains adaptor to plug it into?
Yeah, just a thing that looks like the power brick for a laptop.
Covered 30 miles today. Cycled ten miles getting home and then couldn't resist going out an doing another ten. It's just a really nice way of getting around, I was putting in the same amount of effort as a leisurely bike ride but just going loads faster and further. Felt really bad for all the people struggling against the wind who I just breezed past on the way home :DD Although props to the guy on the road bike who tucked right in behind me for a mile or two and kept up.
I had an electric bike once and you're right, it's very easy to cover distance on one. I could do ten miles on mine without even breaking a sweat :D

There used to be a hill at my mum's as you got toward her house and it's pretty tough. You would see people getting off and pushing their bikes up the hill, whilst I just overtook them and whirred past :D

You're making me miss mine now !
Coming soon....many photos of JCs new electric bike with rainbow LEDs and a big exhaust fan ;)
After the first fifty miles I'm absolutely bloody loving this bike. What a joyous way to travel, only slightly more than walking effort but zipping along at 15-20 on the seafront. Worked out that if I can take it to work three days a week then it'll pay for itself, in fuel costs alone, in a couple of years. Although it remains to be seen how enthused I'll still be when it's dark and pissing it down in the middle of winter.
markg wrote:
After the first fifty miles I'm absolutely bloody loving this bike. What a joyous way to travel, only slightly more than walking effort but zipping along at 15-20 on the seafront. Worked out that if I can take it to work three days a week then it'll pay for itself, in fuel costs alone, in a couple of years. Although it remains to be seen how enthused I'll still be when it's dark and pissing it down in the middle of winter.


What's the bike and how much? My father in law is after something similar for getting about in Portugal.
markg wrote:


Nice, thanks! Looks excellent and your enthusiasm has turned my head too. Can't justify with my current commute but it does sound very appealing.
DavPaz wrote:
is this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vandorm-Legend ... =bike+pump

a decent pump for the price?


With track pumps i like to look for a good base to put feet on when pumping. That one looks fine to me, and has both valve types.
I just bought that very same one not three days ago! I'm no expert on bike pumps but it definitely blew up my bike tyres.

I also put some of that slime stuff in my tubes two days ago and so far I have had no punctures so that too is 100% effective.
Ok, ta chaps. The kids have both just learned how to ride (yay!) so my bike is actually going to get some miles on it. Sadly, my faithful old foot pump split its hose the other day and getting road bike tyres up to the correct PSI is a ballache (arm ache?) with a hand pump.

Purchasing...
I also just ordered one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tactical-Hunt ... SwIwhWSfgH

For when I want to go tactically hunting on my bike.

Meant to be really decent lights for the money.
Nice! I just thought, I'd better get myself a helmet. It's no good me lecturing the kids about wearing theirs when I'm bare skulled.

(braces for massive helmet jokes)
You should wear a helmet as there is an indication from the courts in a case a while back that not wearing one could be seen as contributary negligence in event of an accident.
Also, you only have one head. Helmet prices seem to be colour sensitive, so if you don't mind going hi-vis you can get high end helmets at a fraction of the cost of the stealthier colours.
DBSnappa wrote:
Also, you only have one head. Helmet prices seem to be colour sensitive, so if you don't mind going hi-vis you can get high end helmets at a fraction of the cost of the stealthier colours.

Recommendations, please?
Recommendations, please?
DavPaz wrote:
DBSnappa wrote:
Also, you only have one head. Helmet prices seem to be colour sensitive, so if you don't mind going hi-vis you can get high end helmets at a fraction of the cost of the stealthier colours.

Recommendations, please?

Giro XAR, think I paid less that £60 for that. The stealthier colours run up to and past £200. My hat size is 8 7/8 so don't worry about size as I suspect that might even be bigger than your legendary bonce
Nice! I'll take a look, ta.
I see bikes are taking up some of the front pages today.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-40927791

A few reports (like the BBC one there) say the bike was illegal on the road - I didn't know there was such a thing.
A fixie, apparently.
Well, that's my fact for the day!
Guardian piece from 2010 discusses it.
Before.

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After.

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And my GT Speed Series.

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Currently WIP.

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Well I finished my GT. Same frame they rode during the 2012 limpics.

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And have had it out several times since. Absolutely love it. Beautiful bike to ride. I can now manage about 6 miles standing, compared to this time last year where I couldn't even stand for more than about two minutes without my back giving out. Not lost much weight, but suspect it's muscle taking its place. Still a fat bugger, but a much fitter one.

One thing that niggled me was the £30 wheel set on the £1200 bike. So as a Christmas present to myself I got these. Shadow front and Proper Bike Co rear cassette.

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Both sealed. Should help my fat ass to roll with the 110 PSI tyres. Also realised I didn't have a 80s freestyle bike so I built this Hutch.

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Not quite finished yet but getting there.
£1200 for a bmx. Wow.
KovacsC wrote:
£1200 for a bmx. Wow.


If the GT were built to the olympic spec you would be looking at 3k or more. In 2016 they came out with a carbon version. Exactly the same as mine only CF (mine is hydroformed alu using high pressure water). Mine should have carbon forks and they are £600 or more.

A decent set of wheels like I bought cost a king's ransom too. The rims are around £70 each. Rear hub is £180, front hub is about £80. Then you have spoke and build fees etc. You are lucky to get change from £400 for a decent set of wheels these days.

It's serious business man. Same as any other cycle sport I guess :)
Okay bike people, I want to fix my bike.

It was left outside in the weather for 3 years, it looks okay but surely needs something doing to it to make it road worthy.

What should I be doing?
Bobbyaro wrote:
Okay bike people, I want to fix my bike.

It was left outside in the weather for 3 years, it looks okay but surely needs something doing to it to make it road worthy.

What should I be doing?


Give it a wipe down.with a gt85 soaked rag. Oil chain and cables. Brig a London type ypu probably have a Brooks sprung leather saddle, so treat the leather up a bit.

Then buy a new one, as you now have a winter bike so you need a best bike.
The inner tubes may have perished, so I’d change those. Your chain will be shagged, so I’d clean and lube it properly if you think it’s salvageable. Hose down the crank with gt85 or wd40 while rotating backward. If there’s corrosion on the chain, but it isn’t seized too badly, you can get some fine wire wool and some 3 in 1 oil, soak the wire wool, gently clasp the chain with it and rotate the crank backwards gently to clean the chain. If that doesn’t work, you’ll need a new chain. Check the brakes; lube the levers on the handlebars and carefully lube the calipers if they’re standard v-brakes. If they’re hydraulic discs they will probably be seized, which is a bugger of a job unless you have the right tools. Check the rims for corrosion if you have v-brakes. Test the brakes somewhere safe before venturing out on the road. Lube the hubs. Obviously if you’re using a propellant based lube, stay clear of the brakes and the rims if v-brakes, or the discs if hydraulic/cable discs.
This is where I am at on my rider.

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The seat post is just a stand in. I sold off one of my PCs (just the insides) and decided to go a bit mental. Glad I did, it looks beautiful. This is the post I am waiting on.

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It's literally just a seat delete. I daren't sit on that carbon blade tbh. It will make me get my legs fitter :D
Bobbyaro wrote:
Okay bike people, I want to fix my bike.

It was left outside in the weather for 3 years, it looks okay but surely needs something doing to it to make it road worthy.

What should I be doing?

Take it to your independent local bike shop and support small business. Then enjoy peace of mind that it's been checked and repaired by a professional

;)
Buy a new one from Halfords.
Thanks folks.

I got a quote from my independent bike shop, but £55 plus parts seems a bit steep.

What lube should I use, something special or who 3 in 1 do?

Will I need to do anything with the brake or gear cables?
Grim... wrote:
Buy a new one from Halfords.

Die in a fire
krazywookie wrote:
Grim... wrote:
Buy a new one from Halfords.

Die in a fire

Grim... loves corporations, I'm afraid.
krazywookie wrote:
Grim... wrote:
Buy a new one from Halfords.

Die in a fire

:D
Bobbyaro wrote:
Thanks folks.

I got a quote from my independent bike shop, but £55 plus parts seems a bit steep.

What lube should I use, something special or who 3 in 1 do?

Either GT85 from a bike shop, or WD40 will do for start. You’ll only want 3 in 1 for the chain. Technically, a really lightweight oil, which you can find by searching for sewing machine oil, would work on all other components including fork bushes and cables.

Quote:
Will I need to do anything with the brake or gear cables?

Using the straw nozzle on the spray lube, squirt down the cable sheath while operating the gears/brakes. Repeat until moving freely. You may need to replace them, but it’s not a difficult job.
Thanking you.

I am going to try and fix at the weekend.
Also, there should be gaiters on the ends of the cable sheaths, which you can pride out to get the lube in. There will be several places on the bike where the cable is exposed in its run, particularly on the rear derailleur — lube all exposed cable and try and get into the sheath/housing.
I have a bike query - I bought a new Brompton about 7 months ago. It probably does about 16-20 miles per week, the rest of the time it lives in the shed.

It's already getting pretty rusty - the chain, some of the nuts and fittings.

It's never got terribly dirty but I gave it a wash a few months ago with warm water and washing up liquid.

Should a bike get that rusty that quickly? It doesn't feel like it should.
Findus Fop wrote:
I have a bike query - I bought a new Brompton about 7 months ago. It probably does about 16-20 miles per week, the rest of the time it lives in the shed.

It's already getting pretty rusty - the chain, some of the nuts and fittings.

It's never got terribly dirty but I gave it a wash a few months ago with warm water and washing up liquid.

Should a bike get that rusty that quickly? It doesn't feel like it should.

Most of the screws, nuts and bolts will be steel, along with the chain. They shouldn’t be going rusty this soon, which means they’re penny pinching on those bits — it’s not uncommon on bikes <£1500. Bit of wire wool and some lithium grease will sort them out and some lube for the chain. Every time you wash it, hose it down with WD40. The “WD” stands for water dispersal.
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